After the exhilaration of swimming at Dancing Ledge and scrambling back up the cliff, it’s a relatively easy walk eastwards along the coast path towards Durlston Country Park. The path rises and falls frequently but there are none of the dramatic ascents associated with the terrain west of St Aldhelm’s Head. There are various paths you can take, lower down on the coast path or higher up on the ridgeway. We’re recent converts to the higher path; the seascape is more impressive for the elevated vantage point. At first, it still feels fairly wild in places but then the signs of civilisation begin to appear.

Initially, you’ll see the first of two pairs of mile indicator posts, tall metal towers used by passing ships to measure their speed. Then, Anvil Point Lighthouse appears in view, now fully automated, its keeper’s cottage given over to holiday accommodation. Continue on and you’ll come to the disused quarry at Tilly Whim, once open as a tourist attraction but closed in the 1970s for safety reasons. You are squarely in Durlston Country Park by now, where you’ll see many traces of the Victorian architect, George Burt, responsible in no small part for Swanage’s transformation into a fashionable seaside town, from the lettercut stone panels quoting poetry and facts, to the Great Globe, a full forty tons of Portland stone. It’s supposed to be a good place for dolphin spotting; we’ve never been lucky enough although we did once see a pod near Worbarrow Bay.

Another of Burt’s creations, Durlston Castle, is a recommended stop-off if you need a little light refreshment before the final push to Swanage. There are breathtaking views towards Peveril Point, Old Harry Rocks and, on a clear day, the Isle of Wight.

From this point, the walk changes in character, and it’s secretly my favourite stretch. I say secretly because (a) it’s pretty much downhill all the way and (b) the promise of delicious seafood is not far off; as a relatively hardened coast-path yomper, I shouldn’t really admit that these are the main attractions of this section, for me anyway. The path takes you down through a shady woodland of Holm oaks, which form a dense canopy punctuated by occasional and well-placed viewpoints.

As you descend further, you have the option of continuing via the road, through the outskirts of Swanage, or down through a scenic chine via some steep steps. I’d always recommend the latter for the magnificent trees, including a particularly fine example of a Monterey cypress, a native of the west coast of America which appears to be enjoying life in Dorset.

Continue on and then up some steps into a short section of suburbia, having fun choosing your favourite seaview apartment as you go. Keep following the South West Coast Path signs until you reach the grassy, scenic slopes of The Downs at the south-east end of Swanage. From there, your route is obvious. We are usually ravenous by this point and, after a quick change into fresh t-shirts, we head for the open-air Top Deck Oyster and Seafood Bar, which you will see in front of you as you drop down into town. It’s a relaxed and jolly place to while away a few hours soaking up the sun (fair-skinned folk will need sunscreen in summer). Ask for a seat on one of the outer tables and you’ll have a great vantage point from which to people watch as well as enjoy the views across the bay. Cocktails of the day are potent and recommended.

If you’ve timed it right, you’ll be able to catch the steam train or the Purbeck Boozer (or taxi) back to Langton. If not, the walk back along the Priest’s Way is a fairly easy and peaceful ramble but takes longer than you think: allow a couple of hours. If you’ve got a little energy left or feel you need to walk off your seafood platter, it’s a lovely way of discovering some of the quieter parts of Swanage before you head off into the countryside once again.

Need to know

OS Map: OL15 Explorer map of Purbeck and South Dorset (promise I’m not on commission)

Parking: Spyway car park, Durnford Drove, Langton Matravers

Public transport: The no. 40 Purbeck Breezer passes through Langton Matravers, or the Swanage steam railway delivers back to Harmans Cross and other stops up to Norden.

Refreshments: We are creatures of habit and rarely go anywhere other than the Top Deck. It’s not open in low season but there’s any number of other places to eat in this busy seaside town.

Duration: I would allow a full day for the complete loop from Langton to Swanage and back if you want to take your time, stop for a swim and partake of the various refreshment options in the latter part of the walk.